Barbarian Days Surf Odyssey

Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life by William Finnegan follows his surfing experiences across different continents, starting from California and Hawaii in his youth. He then explored surfing in various locations such as the South Pacific, Australia, Asia, and Africa. Throughout his journey, he faced obstacles like joining a whites-only gang in high school, trying LSD, and fighting malaria.

William Finnegan's Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life takes readers on a journey through his life of surfing around the world. Starting in California and Hawaii, he embraced surfing in his youth before embarking on adventures through the South Pacific, Australia, Asia, and Africa. Along the way, he encountered various challenges, including joining a whites-only gang in high school, experimenting with LSD, and battling malaria. Despite these obstacles, Finnegan eventually found his way back to writing and became a successful author and war reporter. Described as "an old-school adventure story" and "a literary road movie," Barbarian Days is an extraordinary exploration of the art of surfing. It offers a unique perspective on the sport, combining elements of travel, self-discovery, and perseverance. With its captivating narrative and vivid descriptions, this memoir has garnered high praise, including the 2016 Pulitzer Prize for Autobiography. It is a compelling read that appeals to both surfing enthusiasts and those seeking an inspiring tale of resilience and passion.

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